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The Canyons of Utah, part 1

Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010

Let the canyons seep into your soul. Allow the quiet, the mystery, the chaos to work its way deep into your being, making you calmer, gentler, sweeter.

–Tom Jones, Imlay Canyon Gear

I’ve just returned from a week-long trip to the greater Zion area in southwestern Utah, exploring a number of canyons.  Two of the canyons within the park itself involved some technical expertise, some large rappels, and for my part, a few butterflies in my stomach.  I was, however, able to carry my SLR body and a lens in a Pelican case and take some photos of this area of Zion National Park that few visitors get to see.

The first canyon we descended was Mystery Canyon, which feeds into Zion’s main canyon.  The beginning of the hike is the descent into the canyon itself.  I use the term ‘hike’ loosely–this is basically a controlled fall, with the hiker braking himself on tree branches, roots, etc, while trying to not kill himself.  This descent has affectionately been named the “Death Gully.”

Mystery canyon in black and white, Zion National Park, Utah

Mystery Canyon, Zion National Park, June 2010

Once in the canyon, the walls closed down around us, leading us through several rappels, ranging from 30-120 feet in length.

The walls of Mystery Canyon, Zion National Park, Utah

Inside Mystery Canyon, June 2010

A hiker canyoneering in Mystery Canyon, Zion National Park, Utah

A canyoneer inside Mystery Canyon, Zion National Park, Utah

Mystery Canyon culminates with two large rappels; the first of which sends you into the icy waters of Mystery Springs, and the second one delivers you straight into the Narrows of the Virgin River, approximately 3/4 mile from the Temple of Sinawava.  Because of its close proximity to the trailhead, you usually have an audience for the final rappel–make sure you don’t do a face plant on the rock!

Because of the high flow through the Virgin River this year, the day we descended Mystery was also the first day the Narrows were open, meaning we were the first group through that canyon this year.  Because of that, we had a significant amount of deadfall to clear, making the going slow.  We left the canyon scratched, battered, and bleeding a little bit, but honestly, it is so exciting to see a beautiful canyon that fewer than 1% of the park’s visitors will ever see.

The next day, we descended Behunin Canyon, which can only be described as BIG.  I’ll share photos from that trip in the next blog post…

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Off to Zion

Thursday, June 17th, 2010

Yesterday, I arrived in one of my favorite national parks: Zion.  Nothing screams summer to me quite like splashing through the pools and climbing on the sandstone in this wonderful national park.  I’m meeting some friends in hopes of descending a couple of technical slot canyons, and despite the ropes, harnesses and dry bags, I’m going to try to throw my SLR in as well.  I’m also hoping to take a day to hike up the Narrows of the Virgin River in hopes of getting some shots of the river, red rock walls, and green spring foliage.  However, that part of the plan may be cancelled…

Due to heavy snowfall in the high country all around the west this winter, all of our rivers and streams are flowing higher than normal; the Virgin River is no exception.  As of 6/9, the Virgin River in Zion is flowing at 190 cubic feet per second (cfs); the park service won’t even let people into the Narrows unless the flow is below 120 cfs.  However, the stream flow rate has been dropping steadily, and I’m confident I’ll be able to get into the Narrows.  Also, please don’t get me wrong; I’d much rather have to scrap a photo trip than have no water in the park.  The drought is far from over in the western US, but every little bit does help.

So, here’s to the Virgin River.  Have a fantastic weekend!

Virgin River abstract image, Zion National Park, Utah

Virgin River, Zion National Park, January 2010

To see all of my images from Zion National Park, click here.

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Zion National Park “wildlife”

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

When I pulled into the visitor center lot at Zion a couple of weeks ago, there were 3–three–cars in the parking lot besides my own.  If you’ve been there during the high season, you know that’s unheard of; unless you’re there at 5am, you are not getting a parking spot at the visitor center!  The solitude that comes during winter in Zion is pretty amazing.  In the canyon, there are birds everywhere–spotted towhees, dippers along the river, etc–and driving into the east side of the park, you stand a good chance of seeing desert bighorn sheep.

A desert bighorn sheep (Ovis canadensis nelsoni) in the Zion National Park high country, Utah

Desert Bighorn Sheep (Ovis canadensis nelsoni), Zion National Park, January 2010

We saw several bighorns between the tunnel and the park’s east entrance, and I do not know if I’ve ever seen one there in the summer.  Perhaps they spend the hot summer months at higher elevations, but regardless, it was a real treat to see these sheep.

There’s no question desert bighorns are true rock climbing masters; their hooves stick to the sandstone very well.  Amazingly, there is another group of specially adapted rock climbers that is often seen in Zion.  Driving up the canyon, admiring the Virgin River, we ran across a group of these climbers.

A rock climber ascends the route Moonlight Buttress, Zion National Park, Utah

Climber on Moonlight Buttress, Zion National Park, January 2010

Zion is a practically a Mecca for rock climbers.  While I’ve always thought it would be very cool to tackle a rock wall like this, I have never gotten into this kind of climbing.  I’ll leave it to the pros!

To see all of my Zion National Park images click here.  My desert bighorn sheep images (from both Zion and Joshua Tree National Park) can be found here.

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A busy 2010

Tuesday, January 19th, 2010

Its been a very busy 2010; so far I’ve taken photos in 3 states, as many national parks (Bryce Canyon, Yosemite, and Zion), and have added 2 new pages of landscapes (here and here) to my website.  I’m finally home in southern California, and we’re in the midst of what the TV weatherman is calling an “epic” series of storms.  This gives me time to catch up on image editing, as well as sharing images here on my blog.

About a week and a half ago, I had two posts on the “icons” (here and here), and I shared several of my images from Yosemite National Park.  The week after returning from Yosemite, we headed to northern Arizona in hopes of photographing parts of the Vermillion Cliffs wilderness.  Wet weather made the dirt roads impassable (bummer), but we spent a couple of days in Zion National Park before heading to our next destination instead.  Zion isn’t as photogenic in winter as in summer or fall, but there are few (if any) crowds, which is virtually an unknown if you’ve visited in the summer!

I found winter a great time to explore the more intimate scenery of Zion.  While in the canyon one morning, I was struck by the colorful reflections the sandstone walls were casting on the Virgin River.  By playing with different exposures, I got an intimate, abstract image I’m very happy with.

Sandstone reflects in the Virgin River, Zion National Park, Utah

Virgin River Reflections, Zion National Park, January 2010

In my next post, I’ll share some images of the wildlife that can be found in Zion in the winter…

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Cross bedding abstract, Zion National Park

Thursday, January 14th, 2010

Sedimentary rocks are normally deposited as horizonal layers. Even when folded or tilted by faulting the originally horizontal layering is obvious. Upon closer examination, however, you may see very fine layers (usually 1 to several mm thick) that are at an angle to the main bedding. These tilted layers contained within larger layers are termed cross bedding.

What a mouthful right?  As sandstone is formed, sand is laid down, either by prevailing wind current, or water current.  However, over geologic time, those currents shift, causing sand to be laid down in a different direction.  What you get is cross bedding.  I love all the cross bedding in Zion National Park and thought it would make for a good abstract photo.  To make this, I intentionally underexposed the photo by ~1 stop, to emphasize the shadows, then I converted to black and white in Photoshop and applied a very light tint to the image.

Cross bedding abstract photo, Zion National Park, Utah

Cross bedding abstract, Zion National Park, January 2010

You can see all of my Zion National Park images here.

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New images, and a new page

Monday, January 11th, 2010

Yesterday I returned from what felt like a whirlwind 4-day trip to Utah.  Our plan was to head into the Vermillion Cliffs wilderness and visit the Wave, as well as Buckskin Gulch and Wire Pass.  Unfortunately, December snow and recent warm temperatures have made the roads into those trailheads extremely muddy, and nothing ruins a trip faster than having to call a tow truck to pull you out of the mud.  As a compromise, we spent a couple of days in Zion National Park, as well as one day in Bryce Canyon National Park.  I’ll be sharing some images from those parks in the next few days.

On our second night there, we made a trip to Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park near the east entrance to Zion.  I had never been here before, but because of my love for sand dunes I’ve always wanted to.  The geography of the region has allowed the dunes to form here, and the sand is derived from Navajo Sandstone which surrounds the area.  As the name implies, the dunes were very pretty pink, turning a brilliant red as the sun went down.  With the Vermillion Cliffs as a backdrop, this place would make for some great grand landscapes, however I was somewhat disappointed with the number of OHV tracks on the dunes (for grand landscapes, it would be best after a large wind storm).  In the spring, the place would also make for great floral photography.  On this trip, however, I focused on the macro landscape.   I hope you enjoy this image; its one of my favorites from the whole trip.

coral pink sand dunes, utah state park, utah department of natural resources, abstract image, sand dune pic

The Sands of Time, Coral Pink Sand Dunes, January 2010

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My 5 favorites of 2009: #4

Sunday, December 27th, 2009

My 4th favorite shot of 2009 comes from Zion National Park.  Over Labor Day weekend, my dad and I hiked through the Subway, from top to bottom with all of our camera gear.  Earlier that day I had slipped while descending into the left fork of North Creek and very nearly took a spill off of a ~150′ cliff (it really was the most scared of actually dying I’ve been in the backcountry), but despite that (and what I think is tiny–but painful–bone fragment still floating around in my elbow), it was a fantastic day.  I double-drybagged all of my camera gear to keep it dry on the swims, and it was worth it when we came to the beginning of the Subway.

My fourth favorite image of 2009 is one many Subway hikers don’t get to see because there’s a rappel standing in their way.  The first cascade in the system is not as magnificent as the others, but it had an Eden-like feel to it.  I feel this shot does a good job of portraying that feeling.

Inside the Subway system, Zion National Park, September 2009

Inside the Subway system, Zion National Park, September 2009

I think one of the best parts of this image for me is the swirl of leaves in the lower left hand corner.  I hope you enjoy it!

Remember that you can receive 30% off of prints of any or all of my favorite images through January 15.  Also, be sure to check out my first choice for image of the year here.

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Topophilia

Friday, November 6th, 2009

Hi, my name’s Greg and I’m a topophile.

That statement almost makes me sound like I need to check into rehab or begin a 12-step program.  As it turns out, its a good thing to be a topophile.  What the heck is a topophile?  Anyone who has a strong sense of place or identity is a topophile.   Although I have never lived there, I have always felt a strong sense of place in southern Utah.  Having grown up in a home where I was taught to enjoy the outdoors, I do not feel out of place when I am outside anywhere, but I feel especially at ease when I visit southern Utah–its almost as if I’m going home.

When I was 6, my parents moved from Denver to the northwestern New Mexico (the Four Corners area).  I remember a lot of day trips and overnight trips to the La Plata and San Juan mountains, as well as places like Chaco Canyon and the Bisti Badlands.  However, it wasn’t until I was in Boy Scouts (age 12?) that I visited Moab, Utah for the first time.  We went on a mountain biking trip on some local trails, and on the way home stopped at the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park.  To say I was blown away was an understatement.  After that first trip, I couldn’t wait to get back.

My dad, friends, and I had many more trips to Canyonlands over the next several years.  I was not drawn only to the topography and landscape, but also to the archaeological richness of the area.  In some areas, every rock outcropping held a new treasure to see, and to force me to imagine what the ancient peoples thought of this land.  We backpacked in the Dark Canyon Wilderness area, as well as several trips to the canyons of Cedar Mesa, a place I cannot wait to get back to.  Since then, I’ve had the opportunity to explore many of the technical canyons in Zion National Park as well as in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.

For me, its not so much that southern Utah offers so much in the way of natural beauty, but rather that I feel connected with the land in a way that words cannot really describe.  I’m honored to be able to visit and photograph this place often, and I hope that when my son gets older, my wife and I can instill a sense of place in him (wherever it may be) that my dad helped to instill in me.

Over the next weeks/months I’ll be featuring some of my own photos from southern Utah, as well as other photographers’ work who I really admire.

Today’s photo is of Castleton Tower, near Moab, Utah…where it all started for me.

Castleton Tower, Castle Valley, UT, December 2008

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Friday Marginalia

Friday, September 11th, 2009

Another Friday is already upon us, and the photographic community seems to be abuzz with the impending arrival of fall.  There is something about the feel of a chilly fall day that invigorates my senses.

In addition to all of this anticipation of fall’s arrival, we celebrated the birthday of the wilderness act this week!   September is national Wilderness Month, so try to get out there an enjoy one of your favorite wilderness areas.  Incidentally, one of the most moving things I have ever read is Wallace Stegner’s Wilderness Letter, written on December 3, 1960 to the Outdoor Recreation Resources Review Commission in support of the Wilderness Act.

Finally, as an avid canyoneer, I bring up one final point.  Zion National Park is considering permanent parking restrictions on the Canyon Overlook parking at tunnel east, after a park ranger who was directing traffic was hit by the side mirror of an RV.  These parking restrictions would also coincide with further restrictions on backcountry permits given out for canyoneers wishing to descent Pine Creek and Spry Canyon, who use this parking area.  My position is that this would be a mismanagement of the resources available to recreationists (photographers included!)  in the park; I’ve written a letter to Jock Whitworth, Zion National Park superintendent indicating my position as a photographer and canyoneer.  If you would like more info, email me, or visit the Zion Canyoneering Coalition’s website.

West Temple, Zion National Park, Utah, June 2009

Have a great week!

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Tone mapping a single image: RAW or TIFF? A comparison.

Friday, September 11th, 2009

In hindsight this seems like a no-brainer, but since its come up in a few threads recently (e.g. http://www.naturescapes.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=162031 ), I thought I would address the question of whether its better to feed a TIFF or RAW file into Photomatix for HDR generation. For this comparison, I chose to tone map only one image, not several. Although you probably already know the outcome, the end images are only subtly different, but getting there was quite different.

I started with a base image, shot in Zion National Park last weekend:

This is the RAW image; all I did before feeding it into Photomatix was adjust the white balance to “shady” in DPP. The TIFF image looked identical; all I did was save it as an uncompressed TIFF with no other change. As soon as I opened the RAW image in Photomatix, it underwent a process of demosaicing and decompressing. I could already tell that it would be taking advantage of the “extra” info in the RAW image. It opened the image as a “pseudo-HDR” image, and I was able to obtain some stats on it:

The TIFF image opened simply as the TIFF image, and there was no more information associated with it than with a regular image. I first tonemapped the images using the Details Enhancer algorithm, and saved them as TIFF files for use in PS. There wasn’t much difference between the two:

Here’s the RAW file tone mapped with DE:

And the TIFF file tone mapped with DE:

Then I did the same thing using the Tone Compressor algorithm:

The RAW file:

And the TIFF file:

Whoa! I can only assume this funky-looking image is the result of the loss of information during conversion from RAW to TIFF early in my workflow. So, now I have 2 tone mapped images obtained from the original RAW file, and 2 from the original TIFF file. My workflow for each of the 2 final images was slightly different although not much:

For the RAW-derived images I used the DE tone mapped image as the base image in PS, and pasted the TC image over it. I used the Overlay blending mode at ~30% opacity, and the image looked pretty good. I did levels and curves adjustments (and also a desaturation of about -15), noise reduction with Imagenomic Noiseware, then some sharpening and I called it good:

For the TIFF-derived images, I again used the DE tone mapped image as the base image, and pasted the TC image over it. This time, because of the extreme nature of the TC image, I used a “Linear Burn” blending mode at about 25% opacity, and the image looked pretty natural. After normal processing (including noise reduction), here is what I got:

In the end the differences between the images are subtle, and I like them both for different reasons. The RAW-derived image looks more “natural”, but I sort of like the reddish “glow” that’s present in the TIFF derived image. The no-brainer here is that you certainly lose a lot of valuable information by using TIFF instead of RAW for this sort of application.

I doubt anyone cares as much as I do (haha), but this was an instructive exercise to go through.

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